The use of the term haute couture is strictly controlled, and the list of fashion establishments allowed to call their lines “haute couture” is regulated annually by a special ministerial decree. While there were several hundred haute couture establishments in France in the 1950s, today just 10 fashion houses in the country meet the criteria, which include hand-tailoring and personalized measurements. These elite establishments are members of a professional haute couture society that organises two annual fashion events, in January and July.

Haute couture is only for women. The haute couture club may be restricted, but is not entirely closed, says Charlotte Cabaton at France24.com. Four non-French fashion houses, including Elie Saab and Giorgio Armani, share a similar status, as they fulfill all required criteria except for nationality. The fashion industry also desires to create opportunities for young talent and lesser known designers. This season, 17 designers have been adopted by the haute couture club, and given the status of “guest designer”.

Paris fashion frenzy: Haute Couture Shows underway